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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.